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Written by Administrator
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Monday, 22 June 2009 14:01 |
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X-Era motors are not picky about ESC settings. Most default settings are just fine, but there are some things to consider.
PWM Frequency
First, X-Era motors are not like most other outrunner motors. Any setting on an ESC designated "outrunner" should not be used. Specifically, Castle Creations has added "outrunner PWM" mode to its new firmware revision. This setting will cause severe overheating of X-Era motors and SHOULD NOT be used. The default 12khz setting or higher is recommended. Using higher PWM frequencies will result in a cooler motor and warmer ESC. So if your ESC is undersized slightly, use a lower PWM frequency to lower ESC temperatures. If the ESC is oversized relative to the motor, then a higher PWM frequency will decrease motor temperatures slightly.
Timing
Normal or low timing is ok for the X-Era motor. You can experiment with your setup to see which mode produces the most efficient operation.
Heli specific setup
Governor setup is critical for a constant headspeed. Too low a throttle setpoint will overstress the entire power system. Pulling 100A at 50% duty cycle on the esc produces very high current ripple and high peak currents in the system. This reduces efficiency a great deal. Also remember that 50% throttle on the transmitter may or may not be 50% throttle (duty cycle) in the ESC. These values may not be directly related.
For a 3D heli setup, the gearing, motor kv, and headspeed should be chosen so that at the highest power draw the ESC still has some "headroom" to operate.
For AP or UAV applications, bogging maybe acceptable. If this is the case, a higher throttle setting will increase efficiency.
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Last Updated on Monday, 22 June 2009 14:19 |
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Written by Administrator
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Wednesday, 13 May 2009 15:52 |
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If you need to replace the shaft yourself, it's not too hard. The only special tools you need are a small arbor press and a good set of snap ring pliers. I really like the Hitech 1421 and the Enco 1/2ton press.
Remove the snap ring and wave washer. Then with a firm grasp on the front of the motor,pull off the bell. This can take a bit of force, just be careful not to let the bell snap back into place, or severe damage to the rear bearing can result.
Once the bell is off, take out the rear screw and put in a longer 4mm bolt (~30mm long). Then use a small arbor press to push the shaft out through the front. I place a rag over the bolster plate so the bell finish is not damaged.
When reinstalling the new shaft, you can use the same screw as before with a stack of washers. I use a thick plastic washer against the fan side to protect the anodizing.
Once the shaft is in ~7-10mm you can take it to the press and push it all the way home. Then reinstall the 4mm Flat head screw in the back of the shaft with blue loctite.
When assembling the motor, grip the front of the stator as seen in the picture, then let your hand slide forward so the bell is let down VERY slowly. DON'T LET THE BELL SNAP INTO PLACE!!
Reinstall the front wave washer + snap ring and you're all done. |
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Last Updated on Monday, 22 June 2009 14:00 |
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FAQ
